Synthetic upper (PU synthetic leather)
See also: Textiles, Leather and Nonwovens · Mobility
What it is
Polyurethane synthetic leather (also called PU leather, synthetic leather, vegan leather in marketing contexts) is a composite material consisting of a base fabric (typically polyester or polyester/cotton nonwoven) coated with one or more polyurethane layers. The manufacturing process can be via coating or lamination, with different technological variations to achieve different aesthetic and functional properties.
The surface PU layer is what gives the material its leather-like appearance — textured, pigmented, with matte, glossy or metallic finish as desired. Properties of flexibility, abrasion resistance, water resistance and durability come from the combination between PU type, its thickness and finishing treatments. Premium formulations include poromeric PU — with microcellular porous structure that simulates the breathability of natural leather.
In the footwear context, synthetic leather is used in a large portion of casual, sports, safety and fashion footwear in mid-market and entry-level pricing. Natural leather remains dominant in premium segments, but growing environmental and animal welfare pressures are pushing even premium brands toward high-quality synthetic alternatives (Stella McCartney, Veja, Allbirds as notable examples).
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Value proposition
Comparison of upper materials:
| Material | Durability | Appearance | Sustainability | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Premium natural leather | High | Excellent | Low-medium | High |
| Premium PU synthetic leather (aliphatic) | High | Very good | Medium-high | Medium |
| Standard PU synthetic leather | Medium | Good | Medium | Low-medium |
| PVC synthetic leather | Medium-low | Medium | Low | Low |
| New bio-based materials (Mylo, Piñatex) | Medium | Variable | High | High |
| Technical textile (mesh, knit) | High | Sporty | High (recyclable) | Variable |
Arguments for end consumer sales (increasingly important):
- Cruelty-free / vegan: significant market of consumers avoiding animal products
- Lower environmental footprint: PU synthetic leather typically has lower carbon footprint than natural leather (depending on type)
- Consistency and availability: synthetics have color and texture consistency that natural leather does not
- Value for money: comparable performance in mid-market segment at significantly lower price
- Technological innovation: next-gen materials position the brand as innovative
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Related applications
Microcellular casual footwear sole
Bicomponent microcellular PU system · Dual density PU system
Sports midsole (E-TPU and microcellular PU)
E-TPU (Expanded Thermoplastic Polyurethane) — BASF Infinergy · High-performance microcellular PU
Anatomical insole
Molded HR flexible foam · Molded viscoelastic foam